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Someone has suggested using the FPR line, but I'm not sure I want to use this. But no that doesn't make sense because the MAP sensor and BOV needs to see vacuum and boost as well. Deleted the Line that connects the WGA and Compressor nipple from the tee that connects with the Boost Gauge and RRFPR.. (Was told on the org that running that line would cause a high idle). Then ran a line from the middle of the IM to the MS and teed in the boost gauge as well.

Boost Gauge Vacuum Line Diagram

Electronic boost gauges, however, can run to several hundred dollars. Then there's something wrong with my car, because I am above 50psi at idle, and up around 80psi when running it up. On edit - that setup above will have no boost. We drilled a circle of holes through the plastic, broke the centre out and filed the hole until it was large enough to accept the boost gauge. I think it's a gauge problem.

Brass fittings are certainly the most durable but for a completely stealth installation you can't go past the plastic T-pieces used on 993cc Daihatsu Charade carby turbo engines. Been on BF for a while, and you guys have always been a great help. If you are doing an install of a Hurricane 190 kit DO NOT follow the diagram provided in their two page instructions when connecting the vacuum lines. The humble boost gauge has become a must-have accessory for turbocharged and supercharged cars. MY QUESTIONS/CONCERNS for this thread: I've been reading up on boost/vac line setups, but I thought it would be sweet to have a fresh thread to finalize/debate on them, compiling it all in one place for future users (unless there is another out there, then I have failed as a youth in internet researching skills). But I'm not sure if would see enough vacuum to register at idle.

Mechanical boost gauges, which use an internal Bourdin tube, can be bought brand new from as little as $40. Yellow to wastegate valve (the one with the long arm... ). I've attached a pic. 1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current. I used 1/8" barbed fittings in the manifold for the map sensor and meth controller. Our approach was to whip up a replacement faceplate for the ashtray opening and fit the gauge directly to the faceplate. Note - in no circumstance should a hose, cable or electrical wire rub against the metal edge of the firewall hole. Hello, I had my wiring harness replaced in my 1982 Volvo 240 Turbo, picked it up after hours and there is now an issue with the turbo boost gauge. Thanks, So as long as you don't have any kinks or leaks, you will be fine. Or is there another spot that people are using?

Boost Gauge Vacuum Line Diagram Parts

Speaking from experience, it's also the easiest way to identify when a small hose has popped off the intake manifold. Have a question related to Turbos, Nitrous, Supercharging, ect... ask it here. Aiming for the stealthiest possible installation, we opted to fit our boost gauge in the cavity normally dedicated to the WRX's ashtray. I plugged my own vacuum hose to the same port as you show right behind the TB. Follow the instructions per Hurrican, when you get it back together check your BOV, I'll bet ya it's junk i went through several of the cheap plastic ones before I bought a good one and since then no more problems. VW Bug 1971 (Sold) Worst buy. As the name implies, an electronic boost gauge is fed an electrical signal from a remote pressure sensor. '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i. So where should you wire the illumination bulb to? Still reads 0 on Boost gauge at idle. I believe I have it figured out! Especially plastic so I used epoxy.

1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold. What exactly do I run for that? Z3roneo wrote:Cool... A couple of cable ties were used to secure the hose into position. Wish I could help with this but I took it apart in March and can't remember where the hoses where hooked up. 2001 MXZ 700 (SOLD). Looks like my carb and it even has the one line coming off the furthest port on the carb on the left which I believe runs to a pressure sensor. We simply T'd into the two wires that are used to illuminate the cigarette lighter surround and ran the appropriate length of hook-up wire to the ashtray area. The scary thing is that I went for a rip with it hooked up to the wrong ports so of course the BOV wasn't working meaning the intake side was super pressurized when off throttle and the MAP wasn't getting any info. This leaves room for a high-low boost switch alongside the gauge - you never know.... To attach the boost gauge to the faceplate we used the retaining bracket that was included in our purchase (brackets are available separately from most gauge outlets). Boost Referenced Fuel Pressure Regulator. I'll snap some pics and have them up Friday morning.. - kc2005ptgt. For the past year or so I've been working on a spare M50 motor for my 1995 BMW 325ic. Below is a picture of the two ports on one of the carbs.

A little bit of consideration is essential before handing over your cash for a particular boost gauge. I screwed that barbed fitting into the rubber grommet. Is the multi-T the best spot to tap into for a boost gauge? You guys are overcomplicating things. Your diagram really confuses me with all the t fittings. Location: tallahassee, FL. Checked out the maximum psi icv kit and it looks solid! The brake booster u will not have to tap into for the vaccum lines, it will just go into ur intake manifold. Just wanting best results really. Been thanked: 44 times. It's an extremely tight fit. To slow for you Forum member #001. lambostealth wrote:Please ditch the lip, pretty please, makes baby jesus cry... Ediited: added bigger pic so everyone wouldn't be killing there eyes... Location: Albany, NY area. I have several sleds teed in just like MPI and it works.

Boost Gauge Vacuum Line Diagram Symbols

It came with the car, and it's all mine.. DoubtedNeon wrote:so what do I have to do for running th srt turbo? Do it like Brain says: Tee off of the FPR solenoid vacuum line. New pipes to that as well. I'll be using a manual boost controller, two wastegates, bov and an electronic AEM boost gauge. The boost gauge came with a tee fitting so i figured you were supposed to run one line from a vacuum source and one from a boost sourcesilviaks2nr wrote:your diagram really confuses me with all the t fittings. Could I delete that canister and sensor without throwing any major codes/ecu errors?

If its loose, the turbo boost will be uncontrolled, which could explain symptoms. Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:19 am. And what sort of T-pieces should be used?

Note that - unless LEDs are used for illumination rather than a conventional bulb - you can hook either terminal to the positive or Earth wire. I know I should be in to vacuum. Unfortunately, the ashtray area is a fair way out of the driver's normal viewing line, which means it's a little difficult to watch while on the move. I'm thinking if I should reroute the vacuum hose.... As the nuts are tightened, the bracket pushes against the rear of the faceplate and - in doing so - pulls the gauge face securely against the front of the faceplate. Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine. Seriously, Matts is a no-judging place. Last edited: TY 4 Stroke God. Is one preferable to another for vacuum line connection?

Join Date: Aug 2009. Here is what I'm using for a setup. So if anyone else has some suggestions, please post... What do I need to remove to get there? The sending unit comes with an adapter so it can be Teed into a reference line. The Hurricane instructions indicate to "Install supplied vacuum hose manifold to rear nipples as shown in pic. A 158 x 95 x 53mm Jiffy box (part number HB-6011 UB1) was big enough for us to cut out a new faceplate from either its lid or base - it cost just $4.

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