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"The three main ingredients—air, earth, and water—are symbolic, " says Mihaela, brushing her black hair from her face. You got pastrami at Romanian delicatessens, frankfurters at German ones, and blintzes from the Russians. It's a meal that tastes thousands of miles away from those I've had at Jewish delis, and yet there's laughter, good Yiddish cooking, and a table full of Jews who hours before were strangers but now act like family. The countries I visited on my last research trip are no exception; Romania has fewer than 9, 000 Jews (just one percent of its pre—World War II total), and while Hungary's population of 80, 000 is the last remaining stronghold of Jewish life in the region, it's a fraction of what it once was. What's hidden between words in deli meat meaning. Crumbling the matzo by hand, a timeworn method abandoned in America, turns each bite into a surprise of random textures. The higher the terms are in the list, the more likely that they're relevant to the word or phrase that you searched for.

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Children gather around for the blessings over the candles, wine, and bread, as everyone noshes on the creamy chopped chicken liver Mihaela piped into the whites of hardboiled eggs (see Recipe: Chicken Liver-Stuffed Eggs). One night, in the tiny apartment of food blogger Eszter Bodrogi, I watch as she bastes goose liver with rendered fat and sweet paprika until the lobes sizzle and brown (see Recipe: Paprika Foie Gras on Toast). I'd become the deli guy, the expert people came to with questions about everything from kreplach to corned beef. The salamis are fiery, coarse, and downright intense. We eat sarmale—finger-size cabbage rolls filled with ground beef and sauteed onions (see Recipe: Stuffed Cabbage)--and each roll disappears in two bites, leaving only the sweet aftertaste of the paprika-laced jus. What's hidden between words in deli meat products. The dishes I ate there became my comfort food, and as I grew older, I started seeking out other Jewish delis wherever I went: Schwartz's and Snowdon in Montreal (where I learned to appreciate the glories of smoked meat); Rascal House in Miami Beach (baskets of sticky Danish); Katz's and Carnegie and 2nd Ave Deli in New York (Pastrami!

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The official Urban Dictionary API is used to show the hover-definitions. Twenty-nine-year-old Raj (pronounced Ray) is Hungary's equivalent of her American counterpart: a high-octane food television host who had a show on Hungary's food channel called Rachel Asztala, or Rachel's Table. Later that night, about 75 people sit down to the weekly feast in an airy auditorium at the nearby Jewish Community Center. A few years ago, I visited Krakow, Poland, to start seeking out the roots of those foods. And I knew that when they began appearing in New York and other North American cities in the 1870s, Jewish delicatessens were little more than bare-bones kosher butcher shops offering sausages and cured meats. What's hidden between words in deli meat good. In the summer, fruit is boiled down into jams and compotes, which go into sweets year-round. Once a major center of European Jewish spiritual life, Krakow's Jewish population now numbers just a few hundred.

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The next night, at the apartment of Miklos Maloschik and his wife, Rachel Raj, tradition once again meets Hungary's new Jewish culinary vanguard. In the yard of Klabin's small cottage an hour outside of Bucharest, his friend Silvia Weiss is laying out dishes on a makeshift table. Its flavors assimilated, and it turned into an American sandwich shop with a greatest-hits collection of Yiddish home-style staples: chopped liver, knishes (see Recipe: Potato Knish), matzo ball soup. Though initially worried that a Jewish food blog would attract anti-Semitic comments (the far right is resurgent in Hungary), the somewhat shy Eszter now courts 3, 000 daily visits online, to a fan base that is largely not Jewish. Not so much a specific dish but a method of pickling, spicing, and smoking meat that originated with the Turks, pastrama, in various dishes, is still available in Romania, though none of them resemble the juicy, hand-carved, peppery navels and briskets famous at North American delis like Katz's and Langer's. But as the American Jewish experience evolved away from that of eastern Europe's, so did the Jewish delicatessen's menu. At a deli in New York, you'll get a scoop of delicious chopped chicken liver, but never something this gorgeous, this fatty, this fresh and decadent. Every other matzo ball I'd ever eaten originated with packaged matzo meal. I didn't expect to find the checkered linoleum and big sandwiches of my childhood deli, but I hoped to find some of its original flavor and inspiration. "It's as though history was erased.

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I sit with Ghizella Steiner-Ionescu and Suzy Stonescu, two talkative ladies of a certain age who regale me with tales of the Jewish food scene in Bucharest before the war. It had been decades since the flavors of duck pastrami had graced their lips, the memories fading with the surviving generation. The city's historic Jewish quarter is largely supported by tourism, and while some restaurants, like the estimable Klezmer Hois and Alef, serve up decent jellied carp and beef kreplach dumplings that any deli lover will recognize, others traffic in nostalgia and stereotypes; how could I trust the food at an eatery with a gift store selling Hasidic figurines with hooked noses? Growing up in Toronto, my knowledge of Jewish delicatessens extended no further than Yitz's Delicatessen, my family's once-a-week staple. Hers is the city's only public kosher kitchen. He's also fond of goose, once the principal protein of eastern European Jewish cooking but practically nonexistent in American Jewish kitchens. The foods of the shtetls were regional, taking on local flavors, and when European Jews came to America, that variety characterized the delicatessens they opened. These indexes are then used to find usage correlations between slang terms. Singer's matzo balls, served in a dark goose broth, are made from crushed whole sheets of matzo mixed with goose fat, egg, and a touch of ginger, lending a lively zing. What were Jewish cooks preparing over there, in these countries' capital cities, Bucharest and Budapest, respectively, and how were those foods related to the deli fare we all know and love? Amid centuries-old synagogues and art deco buildings pockmarked with bullet holes from the war, I encounter restaurants serving beautiful versions of beloved deli staples: Cari Mama, a bakery and pizzeria, is known for cinnamon, chocolate, and nut rugelach (see Recipe: Cinnamon, Apricot, and Walnut Pastries) that disappear within hours of the shop's opening each morning. Across the street, in a courtyard containing the Orthodox synagogue, is a restaurant called Hanna. Mrs. Steiner-Ionescu and Mrs. Stonescu remember five or six pastrami places in Bucharest that mostly used duck or goose breast, though occasionally beef. Until the 1990s, Jewish life was very quiet.

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The meat was cured and served cold as an appetizer—never steamed and in a sandwich; that transformation occurred in America. Note that this thesaurus is not in any way affiliated with Urban Dictionary. But I also have a personal connection to these countries: Romania was where my grandfather was born, and is the country associated with pastrami, spiced meats, and passionate Jewish carnivores. Here, in Budapest, you can get dozens. The delis were all Jewish, but their regional roots were proudly on display. Since 2007, Bodrogi has been chronicling her adventures in kosher cooking on her blog, Spice and Soul. To learn more, see the privacy policy. He serves half a dozen variations on cholent, a dish that, like matzo ball soup, is eaten all over Hungary by Jews and non-Jews alike. For liver lovers it's sheer nirvana, at once melty and silken. Singer opened his restaurant in 2000, with a focus on updated versions of Jewish classics. The table fills with a mix of foods, some familiar to Jewish deli lovers (salmon gefilte fish, potato kugel, pickled and smoked tongue with horseradish), others that were part of deli's forgotten roots, like roast duck, and the "Jewish Egg": balls of hardboiled egg, sauteed onion, and goose liver.

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Nowadays, you mostly get salted, dried beef or brined mutton. Though none survived the war, I realize that these foods eventually found their way onto deli menus and inspired other Jewish restaurants in the United States, like Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse in New York and similar steak houses in other cities (see Article: Deli Diaspora). I ask about pastrami, Romania's greatest contribution to the Jewish delicatessen. It's this elegant face of Jewish cooking that has largely vanished in North America.

With its wainscoting and chandeliers, it feels partly like a house of worship and partly like the legendary New York kosher restaurant Ratner's, complete with sarcastic waiters in tuxedo vests, and young boys in oversize black hats and long side curls, learning the art of kosher supervision. Because budgets are tight, bringing in prepared kosher food from abroad is impossible, so everything in Mihaela's kitchen is made from scratch. In the kitchen, Miklos doles out shots of palinka, homemade fruit brandy, the first of many on this long, spirited evening. The Urban Thesaurus was created by indexing millions of different slang terms which are defined on sites like Urban Dictionary.

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